Plumbing options/variations on Red Sea Reefer 250 - Page 2 - GTA Aquaria Forum - Aquarium Fish & Plants serving the Greater Toronto Area.
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Old 01-06-2020, 02:47 PM   #11
canadianeh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtac View Post
If you have a parts list for the job, you can either go to JJ Downs in Etobicoke or Fabco in in the Woodbridge area. They have both grey and white pipe and fittings. Solvent, primer, and clear PVC, JJ Downs.

If you have other questions, I find JJ Downs a "friendlier" place to shop. Fabco has a clinical vibe where it's strictly business, order, get your stuff, pay and go.

Clear PVC has a hazy tint and not crystal clear like acrylic. If you are OCD like me, algae and calcerous growth in the transparent pipe would drive me crazy .

Though the pipe has print on it, its on one side so when you glue the pipes together, make sure the print is faced away from line of sight. If in future you want a splash of color on the pipe, get "vinyl wrap" from a print shop and apply it to the pipes. Change color, change the wrap .
I am OCD that's for sure. I will not go with transparent PVC pipe then. You brought a very important factor to consider.

Where do you buy your vinyl wrap for this purpose?

I don't have the list as I don't really know what I need in term of the names for the parts. I know how the look like so that's how I am going to shop for the parts just by looking.

Now in term of their sizes, what size I need to go for PVC piping, unions, and valves? Schedule 40 or 80 for the piping? how do I know which size of unions, fittings, and valves I need if I go for either schedule 40 or 80?
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Old 01-09-2020, 11:25 AM   #12
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You can get vinyl wrap from a sign print shop. There are YT vids to apply it, rubbing alcohol to clean the surfaces, spray bottle of water and spray on surfaces to make positioning easier and a plastic card, like an expired/unused bank/CC/membership card to push the air/water bubble out for a smooth finish.

Easiest way to determine parts is to draw/map out the plumbing runs. Use straight lines for the pipe run and every bend a fitting (45* or 90* elbow).

Places that you want to disconnect and reconnect is a union. Flow control a valve. On/off/half way a True Union Ball Valve (TUBV) and precise flow, a gate valve.

SCH40 is all you need for cabinet to aquarium plumbing.

Sizing you match up with the size of bulkhead. Reducing to match pump output diameter, reactor input diameter, etc. Here's where it can get complicated with the various types of reducing bushings to meet the "termination"/end run. Ie, MPT-barb, SPIG-FPT reducing bushing, SOC-FPT reducing bushing, adapters, etc.

Either we can help you with a parts list here or you can go to JJ Downs with your plan and the guys there will help you with what you need based on your plumbing diagram and supporting equipment..they are AWESOME that way!
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:50 PM   #13
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to do 250 redsea metric pipe to standard pipe, the only one special part you will need to find is either 1 of 3/4" male to slip, or 32mm x 1" pvc adapter or 32mm x 1" transition union to convert to standard pipes (JJ downs has all of them). after that you can plan whatever manifold you like, but i suggest you google what other people have done to get some ideas going.

spear gate vale (aquariumdepot)
color pvc pipe (aquarium deopt or reefpvc.ca)

grey 3/4" & 1" pvc pipe and all fittings (sch 40/80) local plumbing store
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Old 01-25-2020, 09:52 AM   #14
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I was looking at the web stores and they have different types and confusing. For an example, for the gate spear valves, they have threaded, slip, socket??? I have no idea what’s the different lol

There is also PVC vs CPVC??

Last edited by canadianeh; 01-25-2020 at 09:59 AM..
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Old 01-25-2020, 09:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin416 View Post
to do 250 redsea metric pipe to standard pipe, the only one special part you will need to find is either 1 of 3/4" male to slip, or 32mm x 1" pvc adapter or 32mm x 1" transition union to convert to standard pipes (JJ downs has all of them). after that you can plan whatever manifold you like, but i suggest you google what other people have done to get some ideas going.

spear gate vale (aquariumdepot)
color pvc pipe (aquarium deopt or reefpvc.ca)

grey 3/4" & 1" pvc pipe and all fittings (sch 40/80) local plumbing store
I want to convert all three pipes that come down from the overflow to hard plumbing and use Neptune COR20. Which parts do I need? Do I need spear gate valves on all those three pipes, or just on the drain?
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:33 PM   #16
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IIRC, you can use 1" bulkheads (BH) to replace the OEM ones. One BH as a main drain with the gate valve, second BH emerg drain thats a straight run to the sump (Herbie Style overflow system) and the 3rd BH for the return connected to the pump.

Double check the drilled hole diameter first before spending $ on new bulkheads.

Just use all SOC/Slip fittings as it just makes life easier but once glued, it's permanent

Threaded is used to attach the plumbing to other fittings/equipment.

IIRC there is a LocLine at the return and 1/2" so you will need a few threaded to slip/SOC (FPT and or MPT-SOC) fittings.

PVC is all that you need. CPVC is meant for hot water and diameters are different vs PVC.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtac View Post
IIRC, you can use 1" bulkheads (BH) to replace the OEM ones. One BH as a main drain with the gate valve, second BH emerg drain thats a straight run to the sump (Herbie Style overflow system) and the 3rd BH for the return connected to the pump.

Double check the drilled hole diameter first before spending $ on new bulkheads.

Just use all SOC/Slip fittings as it just makes life easier but once glued, it's permanent

Threaded is used to attach the plumbing to other fittings/equipment.

IIRC there is a LocLine at the return and 1/2" so you will need a few threaded to slip/SOC (FPT and or MPT-SOC) fittings.

PVC is all that you need. CPVC is meant for hot water and diameters are different vs PVC.
I rather not messing around with the OEM bulkheads. I thought there is Red Sea part that we can order to help to connect hard plumbing to the original bulkheads?

Is there any downside of using unions instead of slip fittings other than it is permanent?
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Old 01-27-2020, 05:47 PM   #18
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Unions are great for things that need to be disconnected/reconnected like pumps when they need to be serviced/replaced.

Generally not necessary and add a bit of complexity to putting things together.

If you are planning a move at some time down the road, unions are handy so that you can dismantle the plumbing and reassemble vs redoing it all.

With SOC-SOC unions and SOC-FPT BHs, use a "riser pipe". A section of pipe that has both ends threaded. Cut so that you have about 1-1/8" of pipe past the threads. Glue the pipe into the slip union half with the nut. This is important as it makes connection to the other half easier vs fighting gravity if the nut is on the bottom half with one hand . Apply silicone to the threads and screw into the bulkhead. Carry on with the plumbing.

When you have to move/relocate the system, undo the union, remove downstream plumbing and unscrew the upper union from the BH and then the BH is removed and reusable. Adds about $50 to the overall cost and 30mins to the installation time.
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtac View Post
Unions are great for things that need to be disconnected/reconnected like pumps when they need to be serviced/replaced.

Generally not necessary and add a bit of complexity to putting things together.

If you are planning a move at some time down the road, unions are handy so that you can dismantle the plumbing and reassemble vs redoing it all.

With SOC-SOC unions and SOC-FPT BHs, use a "riser pipe". A section of pipe that has both ends threaded. Cut so that you have about 1-1/8" of pipe past the threads. Glue the pipe into the slip union half with the nut. This is important as it makes connection to the other half easier vs fighting gravity if the nut is on the bottom half with one hand . Apply silicone to the threads and screw into the bulkhead. Carry on with the plumbing.

When you have to move/relocate the system, undo the union, remove downstream plumbing and unscrew the upper union from the BH and then the BH is removed and reusable. Adds about $50 to the overall cost and 30mins to the installation time.

Sorry but what is SOC-SOC unions and SOC-FPT. Not familiar with the term.

What size of riser pipe I need that will fit the Reefer 250 BHs?
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Old 01-29-2020, 02:27 PM   #20
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Also check this out using spigot. Would you recommend it?

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/br...211616/page-71
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