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Marine Photography Show us your stuff! Post pictures of your tanks here.

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Old 11-07-2016, 11:51 AM   #11
twobytwo
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Here's two Pics.

One is the waterproof cover.
The other, is my holding tanks with some rocks/corals while I finish painting in the basement :P
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by wtac View Post
Just curious to the cement you used. I find with SpaFlex you must use a primer and really give it a thorough application on the hose and fitting.
It may have been a glue situation, I can't remember, but the other aspect which drives me crazy is the fact that it doesn't make good turns.
My choice would be hard pipe with silicone tube sections as shock absorbers. I really like the silicone tubing as a place to disconnect if needed as well and it also takes up any variations if the pipes don't line up.
Available at BRS and I think Big Show brings it in too, but can't say. I got mine elsewhere.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:19 PM   #13
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Oooh I caused a debate!

The intention of the spa flex was to create a bit of shock absorption. The previous setup, the drain was all hard pieces. On my return, I had a section of about 8" of braided clear hose, clamped to a connection and the rest was hard pieces back up to the display.

If I go with my plan to run the siphon drain from the left to the right side of my sump, even with brackets to secure the pipe to my stand, I wanted to relieve as much stress on the bulkhead.

I bought Oatey Clear PVC cleaner (in the yellow container) - WTAC, would that be an acceptable cleaner/primer when used with the Clear PVC glue as well?

Crayon! Thanks for the advice - I'm just asking questions about it so I make the right decision.

Oh, Also - I want to upgrade my ATO container. I was using just a foodsafe container from Cdn tire but I think it holds about 6 gallons. I was able to fit a 10 gallon aquarium in the space beside my sump... but I need a lid of some sort. Does anyone have leftover acrylic and can cut me a small piece?
LOL...no debate at all. Everyone has their own preferences based on previous experiences. A healthy and respectful discussion is all we desire

I use and prefer the Oatey clear primer myself. The dyed purple/blue primer is nice as a reminder of what was primed but I like clean joints and you can tell by the slight difference in surface color and texture .

Not a fan of the clear Oatey from the hardware stores...too stiff/brittle when dried. The grey one they sell is fine. I prefer and use IPEX 95 Flex or Oatey 795 as there is some flexibility/softness in the dried cement and won't shrink over time. You can get them from JJ Downs.

SpaFlex you can get relatively tight corners...just take your time using a heat gun.

Silicone tubing as coupling works great but in high salt environments you have to use low carbon stainless steel clamps or slather the gear screw and rub a layer of silicone grease around the ring to it doesn't rust away too fast.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:59 PM   #14
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So, I had to take things in a slight different direction... but for the good. The spot I had intended to install the tank wasn't going to work. #1 it was an exterior basement wall near the sliding glass door, so temp control would be a concern. #2, and the bigger problem, was that the floor was waaaay off level. Almost an inch front to back! After shimming it, I could stick a finger under at the side. I was not comfortable with that at all.

So, it's going along another wall - as a peninsula! I'm pretty excited to have more viewing area. I tried to clean up the (formerly) back of my tank which I had let coraline build up over a year and a half, and then dry. bit of work with a razor blade. It's not perfect, theres some imperfections in the glass from the coraline which I don't think ill ever get out, but it might look fine when filled with water.

Almost ready to put the plumbing together. I bought some of the Grey pvc glue on wtac's suggestion over the clear.


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Old 11-13-2016, 05:12 PM   #15
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dude ... tank looks great ...u know I am here if u need help ...
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90 gallon reef ready tank ...

hippo tang , yellow tang, 1 damsel ,flame hawk (favorite ),watchman goby ,harlequin star fish (hides boring ) bi -color blenny,cleaner wrasse , bengai cardinal,twin spot goby, mandarin .
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elusive marine betta(MIA - shows him self periodically -boring )

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90 gallon dual drilled tank with sump
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:41 PM   #16
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Thanks Tom!

A few quick updates. Got most of my plumbing ready to install. I bought MORE than I need so I wouldn't be running out to a hardware store moments before it closes (I doubt I'll need more than one valve).

Got the stand shimmed and pretty close to level. I'm using 2 levels for redundancy. I'm happy with how it is empty, but I'll have to measure again once water starts going in.

THIS WEEKS Questions/concerns:

Much of my rock from the previous setup has been in water filled buckets, waiting to get used. Since it was never dry, do I have to be concerned of any die off when putting it into my tank? I really don't want to bake the rock - I was hoping keeping it wet would help reduce/eliminate the cycle and I could just drop it into the new tank. Thoughts?

Should I use the SW from the buckets the rocks were in? There's probably at least 30g I can salvage (if it's a good idea) from my previous display.

Any problem with rinsing sand with tap water?

I don't think I'm going to drill/rod my rocks to secure them. Maybe the TLF / DD / Instant Ocean cement stuff to secure them. Does anyone have advice on which product works best to secure rocks, and the best place (price) to get it?
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Last edited by twobytwo; 11-15-2016 at 03:44 PM..
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:32 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by twobytwo View Post
THIS WEEKS Questions/concerns:

Much of my rock from the previous setup has been in water filled buckets, waiting to get used. Since it was never dry, do I have to be concerned of any die off when putting it into my tank? I really don't want to bake the rock - I was hoping keeping it wet would help reduce/eliminate the cycle and I could just drop it into the new tank. Thoughts?

Should I use the SW from the buckets the rocks were in? There's probably at least 30g I can salvage (if it's a good idea) from my previous display.

Any problem with rinsing sand with tap water?

I don't think I'm going to drill/rod my rocks to secure them. Maybe the TLF / DD / Instant Ocean cement stuff to secure them. Does anyone have advice on which product works best to secure rocks, and the best place (price) to get it?
As long as there has been circulation and somewhat stable water conditions ie you didn't let evaporation expose a large portion of the rock it should be fine. You will know by the smell instantly if it's not. You could use an ammonia alert badge to confirm but again if it doesn't stink it should be fine. I've had live rock in a tank and powerhead since July and just looked at it and noticed there are still a few button polyps on it. The rock hasn't had a light over it this whole time but it's still purple ect. It does get a bit of sunlight.

You should not use the water the rock has been in unless you have been doing regular water changes. The cost of 30 gallons is minimal and better to start with 100% fresh (salt) water.

You have to use tap water to rinse out sand, it would be cost prohibitive to do it any other way. It takes a LOT of water to really rinse sand clean. Before it gets cold it might be a good idea to do this outside with the hose.

Drilling works best but that's not to say you can't use a glue / epoxy mix. Glue from dollar store, epoxy from black friday specials. Just remember if you are going to use a lot of epoxy do not add your fish and corals right away as the water will be oxygen deprived.
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:43 PM   #18
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As long as there has been circulation and somewhat stable water conditions ie you didn't let evaporation expose a large portion of the rock it should be fine. You will know by the smell instantly if it's not. You could use an ammonia alert badge to confirm but again if it doesn't stink it should be fine. I've had live rock in a tank and powerhead since July and just looked at it and noticed there are still a few button polyps on it. The rock hasn't had a light over it this whole time but it's still purple ect. It does get a bit of sunlight.

Drilling works best but that's not to say you can't use a glue / epoxy mix. Glue from dollar store, epoxy from black friday specials. Just remember if you are going to use a lot of epoxy do not add your fish and corals right away as the water will be oxygen deprived.
thanks - I have about 30% or my rock in an aquarium right now - I needed to save some special corals that encrusted onto some rocks. That's the picture in my post at the top of this page. The other 70% of rock has been in sealed buckets for about a month. No Light, no circulation - but filled with tank water... I was planning on just pulling them out of the buckets and placing in my display. I'm rinsing the sand but the rock I figured could be ok.

I think I'm going to pick up some Quikrete for securing rocks together. Drilled with rods would be nice but I don't think I want to deal with that mess and running around to pick up rods and a drill bit.
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:31 PM   #19
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Looks good so far dude!
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:44 AM   #20
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I think I'm going to pick up some Quikrete for securing rocks together. Drilled with rods would be nice but I don't think I want to deal with that mess and running around to pick up rods and a drill bit.
Quickrete as in cement in a bag? Don't think that's wise.....cement is limestone based and it sounds like you want to get this into the tank right away, correct? If you are cementing the rock and curing it in some other water, then ok, but not back into the tank immediately.
Maybe others have experience with this, but I wouldn't do it.

Look at the Aquaforest stuff for cementing rocks. You need to do it out of the water, semi dry, but once it cures, it can go right back in. It's a powder which mixes up like an epoxy cement, designed for aquariums.
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