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Duckhams 40G Reef Build - Rimless/Synergy Overflow

40K views 119 replies 21 participants last post by  duckhams 
#1 · (Edited)
BUILD SPECIFICATIONS:
Tank Manufacturer: Miracles Aquariums
Tank Dimensions: 36" x 18" x 16.5" (typical 40 gallon breeder size)
Tank Details: Rimless - 3-Sides Low Iron (Starphire) - Bottom Braced

Sump Manufacturer: Miracles Aquariums
Sump Dimensions: 23" x 14" x 16"
Sump Details: 2-Sections = Drain/Skimmer - Return.

Stand Manufacturer: Miracles Aquariums
Stand Dimensions: 36" x 18" x 38" (LxWxH)
Stand Details: 'Espresso Style' Maple Stand - Black Finish

Overflow: Reef Synergy 16" Overflow Box for BeanAnimal System with 1" Drain Lines
Return Pump: EcoTech Marine M1 Vectra with 3/4" Return Lines
Powerheads: 2 x MP40 Quiet Drive's
Skimmer: Vertex Omega 130
Lighting: 3 x Radion XR15PRO's
Filtration: 2 x 4" Filter Socks 200 microns & 1 x In-line DIY GFO/Carbon Reactor

GOALS:
The goal with this system is to have an easy to manage system that requires little maintenance and maximizes automation to minimize the need for a tank sitter when I have to travel for work. This will affect the coral/fish that I keep in the system as well as the equipment setup. I've also chosen equipment that will make the system as quiet as possible, Vectra M1 return, MP40QD powerheads etc, as the tank will be right next to my desk (home office).
Hopefully I'll have the tank, sump and stand this week and can begin getting the plumbing ready, water test it and get the system in place. I got some parts from BRS this week to get the plumbing ready (pics below).




SUMP LAYOUT: DRAIN LINES/SKIMMER SECTION - RETURN PUMP SECTION.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Reef Synergy 16" Overflow Box

The overflow arrived already! They are very well packaged. This is what I pulled out of the box I got from BRS along with a few other things.

*ADDITIONAL NOTE ABOUT REEF SYNERGY WARRANTY* - For the warranty to apply the overflow must be used with a tank stand built by Reef Synergy, or a stand that they approve in writing before use. Contact them ahead of time and make sure to get approval BEFORE you install the overflow.



The rear box is connected with internal bulkheads to in-tank overflow box upside down to save space in packaging. The rear box actually sits lower than the inside box when mounted to the tank.


Magnetic weir has surprisingly strong magnets.


This looks really sharp!


Bulkheads are included, which is nice. And the side/bottom panels of the rear box are see through so you can check on your water level and plumbing for blockages etc.


Rabbet joints are used on all corners.


One of the corners has some bubbles. I contacted Rick at Reef Synergy and he assured me that this would not affect the structural integrity of the outer box and that if there are bubbles, they are sealed with a secondary sealant, which you can see in these photo's. Im not concerned about them as they won't be visible and the construction of the box is very solid.


I haven't water tested the box yet, but I doubt I will have any issues.


A few plumbing parts for the BeanAnimal overflow, return lines and a DIY in-line GFO/Carbon reactor. The silicone tubing is for the connection to the return pump to mitigate any noise from vibration, and bacteria/algae will not grow on silicone tubing as it would on PVC/vinyl tubing.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Substrate : Fiji Pink

I've always used Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand with good success, it's a nice bright white, but always found the smaller grain size sands more aesthetically pleasing. So im going to use Fiji Pink Aragonite on this setup and see how that works. I think the smaller grain size will help trap detritus on the surface for easier cleaning, the Special Grade stuff is a larger grain and detritus tends to sink through it.

 
#4 · (Edited)
Custom Tank Stand by Miracles

The plumbing is starting to come together. The Synergy Reef Overflow is fitted and looks awesome. I've kept the return lines really short as I have 2 of them at 3/4" and probably only needed one on such a small system. But I like the symmetry so it's all good.
I've also started to paint the inside of the stand with KILZ. I've had great luck with this paint on my current system with spills and drips, so im using it again. I also like the inside of the stand to be white as it makes things easier to see when I have the stand lights on (LED strips). Once painted I'll seal the bottom of the stand with silicone. I love this point in a build, so much fun!

Im really pleased with the tank from Miracles, it's solid and looks great with the overflow and plumbing installed. The clean black silicone lines look really sharp!









 
#6 · (Edited)
The plumbing is coming along, my least favourite part of a new tank build. I found a clear primer which helps keep things looking clean compared to the purple primer which I get everywhere! And I went with a proper gate valve this time on the BeanAnimal overflow, the ball valves are ok but I really want to dial this one in for absolute silence. (the Vectra M1 will help with that too). I've tried to keep the plumbing openings in the stand as small as possible so that the stand contains as much noise as possible. We'll see how much of a difference that really makes.



 
#8 ·
I have always used the primer/cleaner but I know some do not. It prepares the joints/fittings for bonding. Basically, the cement is welding the two pieces together and creating 1 solid piece rather than two separate pieces that are stuck together with an adhesive between them, the primer removes any debris, dirt or residues that could impede that process, though it's likely not critical to for our application.
 
#14 ·
I currently have 9 fish in my 75 gallon, but im planning to let a couple anthias and a leopard wrasse go. So i'll end up with the following:
2 x Clownfish
1 x Potters Wrasse
1 x Melanurus Wrase
1 x Pink Spot Goby
1 x Lyretail Anthias (maybe no anthias, I might sell all 3, 2 x females and 1 x male)
(i'd like to add a couple smaller fish, royal gramma's, fire fish, blennies or similar instead).
 
#16 · (Edited)
Great looking system, I'm also impressed with the way you plumb your systems, very neat and clean. Are you planning to use LED's or T-5's on your new system?
Thank you! I listed that in the full build specs in the first post. Im going to use 3 x XR15Pro's. 1 x XR15Pro for every 12" of tank, overkill I know but that's why their intensity is adjustable, I can just dial them down. :D
 
#18 · (Edited)
Sump - gfo reactor - plumbing

I got the three drain lines hard plumbed today, and the GFO reactor fitted. Im now trying to work out where to put the mini-manifold for the GFO reactor, on the vertical line from the pump or tee'd down from the horizontal return line. Neither looks good, I need to find a better way to run the 1/2" RO tubing to the reactor without it hanging all over the place.

Im going to mount the tank controller, doser, vortech controllers etc, over on the right just in case something drops, I don't want it falling into the sump.
It's going to be tight with all the equipment installed.

 
#19 ·
build

great build so far Elliott deff following along .....

:eek:did I read correctly fesso u downsizing :eek:
 
#20 ·
Got it all plumbed up, water tested and flushed it for debris, and no leaks! :D The plumbing isn't exactly as I had envisioned, but it does the job. I totally forgot to use red PVC inside the stand and have ended up with a black and white system, which I quite like actually. I'll post more pics of the finished plumbing etc once I get it in to the house tomorrow.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Tank Setup

I got the tank moved in over the weekend and started getting everything setup. Plumbing is almost complete, just need to install the return pump from my other system and start getting everything transferred over. Then I can get the APEX, Vortech's, lighting etc setup too.

Got the tank in place!



Plumbing installed (still need to connect the return pump from the other tank)


I need to find another 90° 1/2" fitting for the GFO reactor.


Got the tank levelled with composite shims from Lowes. Super easy to cut to size.


Also started installing the mag-holders for my Tunze Osmolator ATO system.


I don't have an outlet close to the tank, so I picked up a GFCI power bar.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Apex

I got the APEX hooked up, and even found a VDM module that was hooked up but not in use, which I'll post for sale shortly.

Once I unplugged the APEX from the old tank I had to move the return pump, heater etc over pretty fast before pulling the rockwork and corals over. Thankfully I only have 2 large rocks that make up my rockscape, so it was easy to lift them out with corals still attached and just place it in the new tank.

 
#26 · (Edited)
Rock & corals in!

I kept the main rock from my old tank, and had to chop a small section of the second to be able to save them nems for the clowns, which have their own little island on the left now. I have a ton of frags that im not going to be able to fit and in setting up this tank i've found I have loads of equipment my from old system that I won't be able to use. (48" T5 setup, pumps, frag racks, apex modules etc etc, will post for sale soon).

Not the greatest pic, and things are strewn everywhere, but you can see where things have ended up. I'll get some better pictures to replace these later. Once all the corals are off the sand it's going to look great! I love having one central structure/island for the fish to swim around, they've all settled in really well.




Things started to clear up quickly:

 
#28 ·
Looks great, good job Elliott. I really like the rock work, good luck with the new system.
Thanks Terry! Im really happy with it, everything has opened up so much fuller in the new tank. Probably due to an 80% water change :D . I must admit though, im sad to see the 48x20x20 sat there empty. It's such a great sized system, I wish I could have kept it running.
 
#29 · (Edited)
The tank is really looking good. I still have a few more corals to get up off the sand, but it's close. Once everything grows in it's going to look awesome. I did a water change yesterday after using 3/4 of a tube of TLF epoxy and still can't turn my skimmer back on without it overflowing and creating a micro-bubble storm. Might have to get some carbon online tonight.

I thought the 3 XR15Pro's might be overkill, and they probably are, but the tank is so bright and the coverage is incredible, it just looks awesome. I couldn't be happier with it.

I want to add a couple monti-caps to add a feeling of 'depth' to the rock-scape. Maybe a reeftech or another chili-pepper cap, not sure yet. I've got a few more frags, a ceramic frag rack and one of the nems to move out of the tank before I get to that. Plus a ton of extras from my last setup, an APEX VDM module for Tunze's/LED's, RO membranes, frag bags and a DIY T5 setup among others.

 
#30 · (Edited)
Update pics

A few update pics. Things have come together nicely. I got a ReefTech Starburst Montipora frag today which im excited to watch grow out and a I got a Tierra Del Fuego SPS frag, which should colour up nicely! (pics of those coming soon).
 

Attachments

#33 · (Edited)
Coral pics

Im feeding the corals weekly with a combo of Fauna Marin Zoa/Ric food, Reef Roids, KZ Coral Vitalizer, TLF AcroPower and KZ LPS Amino Acids. I mix it up based on how the corals look and spot feed the corals with the pumps off for 30 minutes. The chalices really take their time to open up.











 
#34 ·
Aquatic Log

Uploaded the build on Aquatic Log to keep track of the tanks progress, coral growth, set reminders for maintenance and coral feeding, and track trends in alkalinity and calcium uptake.
 

Attachments

#35 ·
Duckhams 40g Reef Build

I was at Elliott's house today and I had the opportunity to checkout his recent project, a 40 gal. reef tank. This tank is incredible and pictures do NOT capture the true colours of the corals in this setup. As usual Elliott has out done himself with a well planned out system that brings out all of the outstanding colours of his corals. From the plumbing to his rock work and the placement of the corals this systems works. Great Job Elliott !!!!
 
#36 ·
I was at Elliott's house today and I had the opportunity to checkout his recent project, a 40 gal. reef tank. This tank is incredible and pictures do NOT capture the true colours of the corals in this setup. As usual Elliott has out done himself with a well planned out system that brings out all of the outstanding colours of his corals. From the plumbing to his rock work and the placement of the corals this systems works. Great Job Elliott !!!!
Thank you for the kind words Terry!
 
#37 ·
Vertex Omega 130 Airline Mod

Im working on increasing the stability and efficiency of my Vertex Omega 130 skimmer. On my larger system it was fairly stable and performed well, but the water height was critical for its operation (6.5") or it would overflow. On this tank I have it in 7.25"-7.5" of water and get very wet and inconsistent skimmate and fear an overflow from small changes in water chemistry. So after some reading im going to restrict the air intake to produce smaller bubbles, hopefully more stability and drier skimmate. (basically, for skimmers, smaller bubbles are better).


MaxiJet MJ900 Air Valve, silicone tubing and ratchet clamp.


Drilled it out to increase diameter of air inlet.
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Assembled.



Installed on Omega 130 Air Intake.


Skimmer Airline fully open, no restriction. LARGE bubbles at neck. Stand pipe 1/3 closed. I closed the stand pipe 1/3 to adjust the water inside the skimmer to a mid-point where I was not getting a lot of micro-bubbles ejected from the output, that is the only reason I closed it at all. I will likely adjust it again later to open it more.



Skimmer Airline restricted, valve 1.5-2 360° turns open from closed. Much smaller bubbles at neck, a huge improvement. Stand Pipe still 1/3 closed.


I'm getting a slight whistle from the airline restrictor, the skimmer pulls in an enormous amount of air. Im going to try and reduce the whistle with by adding a 'muffler' of sorts, but will get to that later. First I want to see if this mod adds more stability to the skimmer and see what effect it has on skimmate production. (hopefully darker, drier and dirtier).
Adjusting the airline restrictor controls the size of the bubbles in the skimmer neck, which has a direct effect on efficiency and means I can dial it in to wet/dry skim as needed without adjusting the water height too much, risking an overflow. Im sure it will take some time to dial it in to reach a sweet spot. I'll keep you updated. (feel free to correct me if I have misinterpreted my research on air-intake/skimmer operation).
 
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