Looking for afforadable aquarium backing
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I don't trust myself with the space that is there. X) Its only maybe 4 inches of space. I should have left more.
I will locate the ole' measuring tape and get an exact number for ya. I also want to do the 75 gallon which isnt tall but it depends on the price of it.
I will locate the ole' measuring tape and get an exact number for ya. I also want to do the 75 gallon which isnt tall but it depends on the price of it.
You can buy a special roller that's designed for painting behind such things as toilets. Long skinny handle, skinny roller. Not that costly, and roller can be replaced and the tool used again for other painting projects. I've used one, and it works. Four inches is way more space than you get behind the average toilet too.. you'd have enough room to roll paint.
yep +1 paint it. I use melamine paint and a 6" roller isn't more than a couple inches deep. Or if that won't work any big als will sell you the background, the black is actually blue on the other side. It will not be as nice as painting, but you could slide it back there and tape it in place. to go real cheap just use black paper.
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357 Posts
I've used the Big Al's blue and black, and I don't think you'll be happy as I wasn't. Painting it is your best bet. HD sell a mini roller that is probably only 1" thick, slide an old news paper between the wall and the tank and start painting.
Yep. Paint removal is not that big a deal. Ordinary razor scraper, as for scraping silicone,works fine, or you can get one of the brush- on or wipe-on paint removers. Paint remover won't hurt glass and so long as you use a water soluble one, not hard to wash clean afterward.
I'd stick to water washable types, way easier to clean off afterward.
If the tank has a plastic top and bottom frame, there's a chance that paint removers might do some damage to the plastic or possibly the glue that's used to stick them on. If it were me I'd remove the frames before using paint remover. If you can't or don't want to do that, mask them well with plenty of masking tape.
Removing frames isn't difficult, a putty knife or similar tool and maybe a rubber mallet or a hammer used gently is all that's needed to pry a frame off. They're usually only glued in a few places, and I think it's usually just hot glue, which isn't all that strong.
It's very easy to put them back on using silicone. Fill the frame channel with silicone and gently push onto the glass. Shouldn't be much, if any squeeze out, but if there is some, you can cut or scrape it off when dry. It makes a better seal for the frame than the glue does, because it fills the entire channel, so wicking of water under the frame can't happen if the tank is overfilled.
I've had a couple of tanks that had wicking issues, due to the fact I usually fill them past the point the manufacturer had in mind. So I take the top frames off, scrape out the few blobs of glue and stick 'em back on with silicone. Can do the same with the bottom frame too.
I'd stick to water washable types, way easier to clean off afterward.
If the tank has a plastic top and bottom frame, there's a chance that paint removers might do some damage to the plastic or possibly the glue that's used to stick them on. If it were me I'd remove the frames before using paint remover. If you can't or don't want to do that, mask them well with plenty of masking tape.
Removing frames isn't difficult, a putty knife or similar tool and maybe a rubber mallet or a hammer used gently is all that's needed to pry a frame off. They're usually only glued in a few places, and I think it's usually just hot glue, which isn't all that strong.
It's very easy to put them back on using silicone. Fill the frame channel with silicone and gently push onto the glass. Shouldn't be much, if any squeeze out, but if there is some, you can cut or scrape it off when dry. It makes a better seal for the frame than the glue does, because it fills the entire channel, so wicking of water under the frame can't happen if the tank is overfilled.
I've had a couple of tanks that had wicking issues, due to the fact I usually fill them past the point the manufacturer had in mind. So I take the top frames off, scrape out the few blobs of glue and stick 'em back on with silicone. Can do the same with the bottom frame too.
Get a heavy duty black garbage bag and tape it to the back of your tank. If you still like the look after a few weeks then consider painting or buying a background, but the bag can look decent.
I had a black background from Big Al's for awhile but took it off and like the look better. The wall behind is white and the back of the tank is heavily planted so it has a nice light coming through the trees look. All my equipment is on the side of my tank though, so there are no cords etc. I need to hide with a background.
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I have some Benjamin Moore Advance paint in black that is left over from a job. In my professional experience, it is the best cabinet paint that money can buy apart from lacquers. Has the durability and finish of alkyd paint, but it's water based.
I'd be glad to send it your way if you want; one of my guys lives near Pape & Cosburn, not sure if that's convenient for you...
And yes, just use a razor blade in a scraper handle to remove it.
I'd be glad to send it your way if you want; one of my guys lives near Pape & Cosburn, not sure if that's convenient for you...
And yes, just use a razor blade in a scraper handle to remove it.
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Does that apply to acrylic as well?
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I've found both to be removed in this way. Though I have found both to sometimes be a bit persistent in holding on in patches.
Acrylic generally removes a bit easier, especially when salt creep sits on it for months on end...
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