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Reefing is my meth
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So there is so many different opinions on quarintine tanks just like everything else in this hobby. So this is what I was thinking of doing and let me know your opinions please. I don't have any fish in my display yet because I am stuck at this point and what to do. Currently a clean up crew and corals are all that's in there

So the plan is a small quarantine tank with heater maxi jet and filter with filter floss. My original thinking is have the quarintine tank just pure clean salt water. And once the quarintine process is complete drip acclimatize the fish with water from the tank.

Or should I use filter floss I have in my sump right off the hop?

Or am I completely wrong on everything? Lol

And what should I be using as a proactive treatment in the quarintine tank?

-cheers
 

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Or should I use filter floss I have in my sump right off the hop?

Or am I completely wrong on everything? Lol

And what should I be using as a proactive treatment in the quarintine tank?
Filter floss is okay but I wouldn't be too worried about trying to seed it.

I think it depends on how occupied your QT will be and the size. I have read that new fish should be kept in QT for 2 weeks to determine their well being.

For a small tank 10-20G, water changes are easy enough to do that you don't need to be too worried about cycling it. Just my opinion.

It seems the most common fish issue is marine ich. It's a good idea to have copper med (ie. Cupramine) on hand. I find some fish stores keep their water salinity/gravity low, almost in hyposalinity stage where ich is not easily detected. So I would be careful and make sure fish get acclimated properly in QT and have lots of patience.

Right now, I use a 20G bare bottom tank with two AC70 with only sponge in it. Mainly for water movement and mechanical filtration. And of course a heater. I feed very lightly and monitor ammonia. Waters changes as required.

I'm sure others have different methods.
 

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Not a mod!
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Just my opinion:
No need for filtration since the fish will only be there for a few weeks.
The QT should be fresh water and never have anything other than that. If you add water from your tank, you are adding a possible pathogen into your QT.
The idea behind the QT is also to give the fish time to acclimate to a new environment so by adding tank water this defeats the purpose.
Lowering the salinity is a good idea in a QT to help with disease and infection. You can gradually bring it up the last week.
Bare bottom is the way to go!

Again, just a opinion :)
 

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My thoughts and what has worked for me.

1st off there is quarantine and treatment.

I choose to treat my new fish regardless. I don't believe my observation alone will detect possible infections with the fish all the time. Ich for example could be in the gills and you would not see it on the fish.

I do my best to have a sponge filter going to help keep ammonia in check but I have gone without one before with lots of water changes and checks for ammonia.

I treat my fish for 5-6 weeks before they go into the display. The waiting is the hardest part.

I tried Hyposalinity at the beginning but found keeping my new prepared salt water at the low level of 1.009 for water changes in the QT tank left me with no water to change out for the Display tank. When I was just starting out I had the QT tank running at least 4 mths in a row. The option would be to have prepared salt water in two batches but that was not going to work for me with the amount of water changes and storage of fresh salt water.
I changed water min every 3 days while running Hypo method.


Now I start with Prazipro for 1 week using water from my display tank as I trust its good, and the fish will end up there anyway.

Next I dose Cupramine for 4 weeks. when I do a water change I add enough Cupramine back in to keep the level in check to beat Ich. I use both water from the display tank and new fresh salt water. I change 25% of the water at least twice a week. If I am changing water from the display I use that to save water overall. 1 more week observation with a few fresh water changes from the display to reduce the Cupramine and done! Happy Fish...Happy Life :)

This process is working well for me. I tried QT Hypo at first and lost some fish so thought I would bypass this QT stuff and put the fish right in the display.

Well that only worked for a while and the display got infected with Ich. (A Tang of course appeared to bring it with him) I had to pull all the fish out and QT leaving the display Fallow for 10 weeks. Now that was pain full and I lost some of the fish in QT. Never again will I not QT and treat the fish , as corals grow its a real PITB to try and get fish out of the display.If they are sick it can ruin what you worked so hard on, plus the risk of losing your favorite fish in the display.

This is not perfect I'm sure but its working for me.

If a 20gal or smaller tank maybe QT is a bigger deal than just putting the fish in the tank and I might myself even risk it in a small display but not in larger tanks to big a risk and cost.
 

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Coral Porn Connoiseur
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My thoughts and what has worked for me.

1st off there is quarantine and treatment.

I choose to treat my new fish regardless. I don't believe my observation alone will detect possible infections with the fish all the time. Ich for example could be in the gills and you would not see it on the fish.

I do my best to have a sponge filter going to help keep ammonia in check but I have gone without one before with lots of water changes and checks for ammonia.

I treat my fish for 5-6 weeks before they go into the display. The waiting is the hardest part.

I tried Hyposalinity at the beginning but found keeping my new prepared salt water at the low level of 1.009 for water changes in the QT tank left me with no water to change out for the Display tank. When I was just starting out I had the QT tank running at least 4 mths in a row. The option would be to have prepared salt water in two batches but that was not going to work for me with the amount of water changes and storage of fresh salt water.
I changed water min every 3 days while running Hypo method.

Now I start with Prazipro for 1 week using water from my display tank as I trust its good, and the fish will end up there anyway.

Next I dose Cupramine for 4 weeks. when I do a water change I add enough Cupramine back in to keep the level in check to beat Ich. I use both water from the display tank and new fresh salt water. I change 25% of the water at least twice a week. If I am changing water from the display I use that to save water overall. 1 more week observation with a few fresh water changes from the display to reduce the Cupramine and done! Happy Fish...Happy Life :)

This process is working well for me. I tried QT Hypo at first and lost some fish so thought I would bypass this QT stuff and put the fish right in the display.

Well that only worked for a while and the display got infected with Ich. (A Tang of course appeared to bring it with him) I had to pull all the fish out and QT leaving the display Fallow for 10 weeks. Now that was pain full and I lost some of the fish in QT. Never again will I not QT and treat the fish , as corals grow its a real PITB to try and get fish out of the display.If they are sick it can ruin what you worked so hard on, plus the risk of losing your favorite fish in the display.

This is not perfect I'm sure but its working for me.

If a 20gal or smaller tank maybe QT is a bigger deal than just putting the fish in the tank and I might myself even risk it in a small display but not in larger tanks to big a risk and cost.
I would second this. I had an expensive lesson on QT with black ich that set back my DT for two months (see thread). Now I got several QTs going for both corals and fish.

I've read that instead of hypo you can do fresh RO water dip for the fish. Put the fish in the RO water for like 5-10 minutes (in a small container) then put it in your QT tank (make sure the water in the bag, RO water, and QT water are same temp). Any crustations attached to the fish will fall off with that treatment. I wouldn't advice it though unless you can see things attached to the fish.
 

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+1 I think RO dips are too aggressive for fish...will burn their gills. It may work on some corals like zoas and maybe acros.
 

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Reefing is my meth
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Very interesting info guys/gals. Like I said just such a wide varity of methods. Maybe I'll have to try a like combo of things. I think I've found my signature quote though. Seems to be a common saying in this hobby.

"Whatever works best for you."

Lol!
 
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