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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

So I picked up this RO/DI unit off Dave and I can' get it to work properly.

I think my plumbing isn't right. I have no idea how this works. It has a Kent Solenoid on it and I have no idea how that works too.

PICS:







Thanks guys,
Vinoy
 

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looks like your blue tubing in inserted in the output line, maybe not, but it does into the jg fitting at the sediment filter. good luck - it was from aquasafe with the kent shut off unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies,

So I fixed up the plumbing and the waste to clean water is at a 3:1 ratio.

But the problem now is that the water is coming out so slow. Clean water is coming out at like 1.5 gallons per hour.

Pics of new plumbing. Faucet is going in to "in" of the pre-filters then to the membrane.



Also, the clean water is coming out like in pulses. For a couple seconds it will come out irregularly then a few seconds would stop completely, then re-start irregularly. I'm think this has something to do with the Kent Solenoid.

Thanks guys,
Vinoy
 

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Can you post a better photo to show the full tubing setup? Assume the connection is correct and all stages of filtration aren't clogging up too badly you might want to check your water pressure. Ideally you will need 60 psi for a 50 GPD rated membrane.
 

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It looks like you have the flow restrictor in the off position? Like for backwashing the membrane?
 

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Offishul GTAA Lolcat
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Looks like you got it right now. Yes, the solenoid would do that. Though for most set-ups it's not needed and you could just remove it altogether and change it out for a thread adapter.

I think you need to keep the valve on the flow restrictor open for normal operation. I'm not sure why it's there, as I've never seen one like that before, and trust me, I've seen a lot of RO units, though most of them have been set up for drinking water purposes.
 

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When the flow restrictor switch is set parallel to the water flow direction it is in "flush" mode. For normal use, you set it perpendicular to the flow direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Guys,

Late reply cause I thought it was working right :D

I'm really frustrated right now cause it's producing like 2 gallons per hour :(

TDS is pretty good at 5ppm, it's just RO water I haven't got resin yet.

ITS SOOO SLOW. The waste ratio is like 3 or 4:1.

Thanks to everyone in advance,
Vinoy
 

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Offishul GTAA Lolcat
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Hey Guys,

Late reply cause I thought it was working right :D

I'm really frustrated right now cause it's producing like 2 gallons per hour :(

TDS is pretty good at 5ppm, it's just RO water I haven't got resin yet.

ITS SOOO SLOW. The waste ratio is like 3 or 4:1.

Thanks to everyone in advance,
Vinoy
Production rate and waste ratio seem pretty normal to me; that's about what mine does. RO units are usually sized by GPD - gallons per DAY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know !!!!

It's rated for 100GPD!!!!!!!

I'm sooo frustrated...

Thanks for the reply Kevin,
Vinoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got the RO/DI from Dave (Wicked Frags) all I know that it's worked for 10 years while he was using it.

I'm trying to get some info on the membrane.

Thanks,
Vinoy
 

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Offishul GTAA Lolcat
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10 years is a while. It's probably plugged. They are not too hard to change. Bring the unit into a plumbing supply house and they should be able to help you.

But if the unit is still producing low TDS water, personally I'd just leave it. I don't sit around waiting for my RO unit to make water, I just set a timer and walk away. I store a bit in pails with lids so I always have some on hand
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Sig,

I'm just trying to pinpoint exactly what the problem. There's no reason for me to buy a new membrane if that is not the issue. If everything points to just that I will, no problem for me.

Back to the issue, how do I know when to replace the carbon blocks and the sedimentary filters????

Thanks,
Vinoy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hey Sig,

I'm just trying to pinpoint exactly what the problem. There's no reason for me to buy a new membrane if that is not the issue. If everything points to just that I will, no problem for me.

Back to the issue, how do I know when to replace the carbon blocks and the sedimentary filters????

Thanks,
Vinoy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if your pressure in house is OK, but you do not have a good flow. It is time to replace prefilters for sure and if it does not help membrane should be replace also,.

I usually replace prefilters every 3 months

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