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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so a lot of us use eBay and recommend it to fellow hobbyists and beginners coming into the planted tank world as a place to purchase their CO2 regulator for a "steal" but many of us get too intimated upon our first search because we have no idea what the heck the different model numbers mean and if it's right for our use or not.

I get a ton of questions from people looking to switch over to a real CO2 set up from DIY , paintball, or just simply a single stage regulator, so I figured writing this out may help everyone involved. Before I start let me just say if you haven't read DarkBlade48's "How To Guide" please start there:

http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12271

Lets start from the beginning; it's rare you're ever going to find a high purity dual stage regulator that already has CGA 320 fittings on it, 9/10 regulator's I've purchased from eBay have CGA 580 fittings which need to be changed out for CGA 320 fittings.

One thing to understand is that most regulator's are only made by a select few companies; it's cheaper for some companies to simply purchase a regulator from another established company and re-brand it as their own.
Ex. Praxair, Prostar, and Restek regulator's are re-branded Concoa regulators, this makes it MUCH easier to search for them online as they will all use the same model number format.

After purchasing numerous Concoa regulator's I've been able to figure out the coding/model numbers so hopefully this will help you while searching.

Understanding Model Numbers - Concoa, Praxair, Prostar, Restek

The first three numbers will ALWAYS represent the actual model of the regulator you're working with. As an example here is a Concoa regulator I recently purchased, lets break down the numbers : 3123332-68-B03

The 312 lets us know this is a Concoa 312 model, the next series of numbers "3332" will tell us the outlet pressure, inlet pressure, gauges chosen, and any other features the regulator may come with. Anything after those numbers like the "68-B03" is generally irrelevant because these are usually the smaller things like colour of the regulator knob or other things that don't concern us. The only numbers you should be concerned with are the first set of numbers I outlined before "3123332"

Outlet Pressure
1: 0-15 psig
2: 0-50 psig
3: 0-100 psig
4: 0-250 psig
7: 0-150 psig

Outlet Gauge
1: 30"-0-30 psig
2: 30"-0-100 psig
3: 30"-0-200 psig
4: 0-400 psig
7: 30"-0-200 psig

Inlet Gauge
0: None
3: 0-4000 psig
5: 0-1000 psig
6: 0-300 psig
7: 0-400 psig

Outlet Assemblies
0: 1/4" FPT Port
1: 1/4" MPT
2: 1/4" Tube Fitting
3: Diaphragm Valve 1/4" Tube Fitting
4: Diaphragm Valve 1/4" MPT
5: Needle Valve 1/4" MPT
6: 1/8" Tube Fitting
7: 3/8" Tube Fitting
8: Diaphragm Valve 1/8" Tube Fitting
9: Diaphragm Valve 1/4" FPT

Assembly/Gauges
0: Bare Body
1: Standard Assembly (psi/kPa Gauges)
2: Standard Assembly (bar/psi Gauges)

After going through the different numbers we can read the code "3123332" as follows: "Concoa 312 Dual Stage High Purity Brass Chrome Plated Regulator- 0-100 psig outlet pressure, 30"-0-200 psig outlet gauge, 0-4000 psig inlet gauge, diaphragm valve 1/4" tube fitting outlet assembly, standard assembly bar/psi gauges."

This will also work for other model numbers like the 212- I also have a 2123331 which is also "Concoa 212 Dual Stage High Purity Brass Chrome Plated Regulator- 0-100 psig outlet pressure, 30"-0-200 psig outlet gauge, 0-4000 psig inlet gauge, diaphragm valve 1/4" tube fitting outlet assembly, standard assembly bar/kpa gauges" the only different was the bar/psi vs bar/kpa.

If anyone knows anymore of the model numbers for other brands like Matheson, Airgas, Linde, etc lets try to get a page started here so we can easily remember the codes when searching online (Thats you Charlie1 and FlyingHellFish !!!)
 

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Great effort , hobbyist should make full use of this thread.
A good point you made , is about the few real manufactures of regulators & the several different rebranding for the same product, I find that hobbyist tend to look for the big brand names, passing up the exact same regulator under a lesser known brand name.
Thanks for starting this
 

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stickie

stickie this
 

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I'd vote for sticky too ! One day I want to be able to switch to using a C02 tank and regulator and this is the kind of information I would need. I have looked now and then, for the sake of curiosity, at gauges and such and find it seriously confusing, so thanks so much for posting this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great effort , hobbyist should make full use of this thread.
A good point you made , is about the few real manufactures of regulators & the several different rebranding for the same product, I find that hobbyist tend to look for the big brand names, passing up the exact same regulator under a lesser known brand name.
Thanks for starting this
No problem, hopefully we get continue to grow the list overtime as more hobbyist take a stab at CO2.

I definitely agree when you say "I find that hobbyist tend to look for the big brand names, passing up the exact same regulator under a lesser known brand name" all we can try to do is educate others so they too can get a deal.

stickie this
Thanks Tom :)

I'd vote for sticky too ! One day I want to be able to switch to using a C02 tank and regulator and this is the kind of information I would need. I have looked now and then, for the sake of curiosity, at gauges and such and find it seriously confusing, so thanks so much for posting this.
Thanks ! You wouldn't believe how many questions I asked when I first started, Lets just say a few members probably hate me by now for it LOL but we all have to start somewhere. If you ever do need help or don't know where to start, you can always PM me. I'm ALWAYS looking for regulator's however my wallet isn't always full so there are many great unit's I often have to pass on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm writing something for someone and if somehow it doesn't work out for some reason, I'll be sure to add something in here.
Great thanks a lot. It'd be awesome if someone could do some input on the solenoids - Thats a section I'm still a noob at, I'd love to get my hands on a SS solenoid.
 

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I think you're talking about voltage, not watts.

For the voltage, anything common is fine. Usually everyone has a spare 12V DC adapter.

For watts, the lower the better. The Burkert 6011A is a bit toasty at 4W when compared to the 0.65W of the mouse. I don't think anything can beat the mouse right now in terms of retail/second hand cost, they are around 10-15 constantly.

The Burkert 6011A comes along once in a while, usually hover around 30 - 50. I prefer DC instead of AC. Some people get the "AC Hum" and it's really annoying. It's due to "dirty power" and something about a 60Hz cycle, I never brother to read further into it. I have a STC AC solenoid that doesn't hum, so who knows.

There 3 plugs in the DIN, one of them is ground. Since polarity doesn't matter for DC (double check your solenoid) you can just wire up the DIN to the adapter. The ground is used for the LED if your DIN has one.

Happy Hunting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think you're talking about voltage, not watts.

For the voltage, anything common is fine. Usually everyone has a spare 12V DC adapter.

For watts, the lower the better. The Burkert 6011A is a bit toasty at 4W when compared to the 0.65W of the mouse. I don't think anything can beat the mouse right now in terms of retail/second hand cost, they are around 10-15 constantly.

The Burkert 6011A comes along once in a while, usually hover around 30 - 50. I prefer DC instead of AC. Some people get the "AC Hum" and it's really annoying. It's due to "dirty power" and something about a 60Hz cycle, I never brother to read further into it. I have a STC AC solenoid that doesn't hum, so who knows.

There 3 plugs in the DIN, one of them is ground. Since polarity doesn't matter for DC (double check your solenoid) you can just wire up the DIN to the adapter. The ground is used for the LED if your DIN has one.

Happy Hunting!
Ah okay I think I probably did mean voltage, who knows :confused: lol. Anyway, I definitely don't want a solenoid that hums and there are a couple burkert 6011a on the market but they are 24V DC, http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Burkert-6011...0-6bar-24V-DC-4W-Solenoid-Valve-/360506638666

Whats your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
^ That one is a manifold mount solenoid. It's missing the in/out ports. Think of that as the clippard mouse version of Burkert.

Not practical, there better options.
Ah shoot, not too sure how I missed that. I'll keep searching; thanks.
 

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Pm Charlie, he can help you with finding one. I still think the Mouse/manifold option is the best price/performance, the Burkert 6011A is the hobby's first love, people like sticking to things they're familiar with.

There other things like Predyne aka Precision Dynamics M Series, which was taken over by Gem. They're all share the same 10-32 fitting (not as weak as people make it seem) so in reality, all of these do the same thing a Clippard Mouse does.

VDW (M5), AM, M series, EH series,
They all share the same features as the mouse:
Low power,
10-32 fitting (not as weak as people make it out to be) mounted

The only difference is the mouse is super cheap used and new, and there always stock on thE bay.

Not a lot of people like to share their info, or their research. There some history behind that...

Anyways, I don't see how any solenoid can beat the mouse right now since the new manifold was release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That building table looks all too familiar, especially the location lol if it is who I think it is, he has way too much stuff but completely jealous of his ability to basically get anything he wants considering where he lives.

Anyway back on subject, the only thing I don't like about the 6100 is the black casing, I want to try to get a completely stainless solenoid if possible.
 

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